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  #16  
Old 03-31-2008, 02:22 PM
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inky00 inky00 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rccardude04
Just turn the ratchet upside-down. Open case, loosen screw, turn upside-down. Done.
That's how heli radios are if you look at them. If you flip it over in a heli radio, you have an airplane ratchet. At least the ones I've seen anyway.
-Eric
I have a 9Zap to fly my real planes and that is exactly how i did it,now my throttle is smooth as silk.
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  #17  
Old 03-31-2008, 02:25 PM
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inky00 inky00 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spareparts
I tried flipping the spring over and just didn't care for the feel. I couldn't make it as tight as I wanted, and the throttle tension wasn't consistent (it still "clicked" near the throttle end stops as well).

The sping on mine is not symmectrical and obviously wasn't designed to be mounted "flipped over". Perhaps there are different variations of the Interlink controller.
Try to bend it a little so that the smooth part is resting on the ratchet.
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  #18  
Old 03-31-2008, 08:32 PM
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DirtyHarry3033 DirtyHarry3033 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spareparts
I tried flipping the spring over and just didn't care for the feel. I couldn't make it as tight as I wanted, and the throttle tension wasn't consistent (it still "clicked" near the throttle end stops as well).

The sping on mine is not symmectrical and obviously wasn't designed to be mounted "flipped over". Perhaps there are different variations of the Interlink controller.
I'm pretty sure they're all the same but then I've only seen the inside of mine

No the spring is not symmetrical, in the "proper" orientation it has a tab that slips into a slot in the case to keep it from shifting side-to-side. Flipped over that tab points up and doesn't engage the slot, so you can move it left or right off the throttle wheel. But I've found it works just fine flipped over, hasn't moved a bit. That shouldn't be a worry!

If it's not tight enough (mine was, I had to loosen it back up a tiny bit) there are a few options:

1) Like Inky says, try bending it down a bit. That would preclude putting it back the original way though if you changed your mind, unless you wanted to bend it back the other way which might risk breaking it. (not likely to happen though...)

2) Put it back like it was and use the fuel tube option. The tube slipped over the end will get rid of the "ratchets" and you'll be able to get it plenty tight. But it will probably be "sticky". Adding some more grease might help that.

3) More drastic measure but sure to work. Leave the tab flipped upside down, and use a good sharp chisel to carefully shave off a small amount of the post that the tab screws into. This will lower the tab relative to the throttle wheel and allow more tension. You can easily put it back the way it was later if you change your mind, by placing a washer between the post and the tab to make up for the material you removed. If you want to do that, the secret is to remove a SMALL thickness, put it together and try it out, and only remove more if it's still too loose. And by "small" I mean paper-thin

Good luck, and HTH! I love this mod, it makes a world of difference flying heli's Hope you can get it working to your liking!

DH
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  #19  
Old 03-31-2008, 09:13 PM
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Spidious Spidious is offline
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Even with the rub bar over mine still had a slight rachetto it.
So I took my exacto knife and shaved off the top nubs, sanded smooth with sandpaper. Then put on a dab of servo grease.

It works great now, smooth and absolutely no ratchet at all !
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  #20  
Old 04-01-2008, 03:43 AM
scolex scolex is offline
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You guys suck! You got me sitting here with a screw driver in my mouth while I type this, and taking apart my Radio, with G4 running in the Backround! Anyways Thanks!!! Wow thanks Eric feels like my DX6i!
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  #21  
Old 04-05-2008, 01:27 PM
2sly4u 2sly4u is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rccardude04
Wow... The fuel tubing is ghetto. I've found that it makes the throttle really 'sticky.'
Just turn the ratchet upside-down. Open case, loosen screw, turn upside-down. Done.
That's how heli radios are if you look at them. If you flip it over in a heli radio, you have an airplane ratchet. At least the ones I've seen anyway.
-Eric
I agree! I did the same thing,Like you said 5 mins and done.I have had no problems with this.Not only that I find it helps doing alot of tricks that you cannot do Normally because of the ratchet.
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  #22  
Old 04-10-2008, 07:08 AM
RookieDave RookieDave is offline
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Get rid of the clicks

Seems to be a lot of ideas about this.

Like a mug I tried first to bend the spring. No go. Then I loosened the screw by about 10 degrees and there is now only a very slight resistance which is much more comfortable to use. The screw is so tight in my Interlink that there's no chance of it working loose by istself.

Plug on - Dave
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  #23  
Old 04-16-2008, 09:50 AM
500Driver 500Driver is offline
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Another option:

I originally used fuel tubing and found it to be 'sticky'...instead a piece of "Mikey D's" drinking straw works real well.

No rubber friction...but still 'tension'

Hope that helps.
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  #24  
Old 04-17-2008, 08:19 AM
RookieDave RookieDave is offline
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Remove ratchet clicks

I'm new too and I solved it with mine before I became a member of this forum. I simply loosened the screw holding the piece of metal by less than a quarter of a turn and it is so smooth now that I have no problems. Screw is still so tight that it won't budge without a firm hand on a screwdriver.

Works for me.

Cheers - Dave
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  #25  
Old 03-24-2019, 05:03 PM
3dwannab2 3dwannab2 is offline
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Thumbs up Ratchet throttle removal real flight 8

I had to spread this info. When I opened my RF-X Interlink-X controller on my Real flight 8 I discovered that there are two rows on the ratchet throttle. One with notches and one without. All that was needed was to use a second row of screw holes and move the sping tensioner over to the smooth row. No tubing or straws,no flipping of the spring etc. Just my two cents but I had to register because it was so easy I wanted to spread the word. Now I have a Heli radio on my simulator. Hope this helps someone else. 3dwannab2
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  #26  
Old 03-24-2019, 06:51 PM
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csgill75 csgill75 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dwannab2 View Post
I had to spread this info. When I opened my RF-X Interlink-X controller on my Real flight 8 I discovered that there are two rows on the ratchet throttle. One with notches and one without. All that was needed was to use a second row of screw holes and move the sping tensioner over to the smooth row. No tubing or straws,no flipping of the spring etc. Just my two cents but I had to register because it was so easy I wanted to spread the word. Now I have a Heli radio on my simulator. Hope this helps someone else. 3dwannab2
InterLink-X is not the same controller as the interlink plus or elite. What you did only applies to the InterLink-X controller.
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  #27  
Old 06-18-2019, 06:41 PM
twogoatsracing twogoatsracing is offline
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Interlink X

I havenít seen the correct response to this, so I am throwing my .02 in. Open the back of the controller. Remove the metal tensioning bar from the ratcheting wheel. Move the metal ratcheting bar to the smooth wheel, which is located right next to the ratcheting wheel. Reinstall the metal tensioning bar just as you took it off. The amount of tension is controlled by the long adjustment screw on the bottom of the metal tensioning bar. I like my throttle tension set with the adjustment screw all the way down. Holds position, but itís easy to move.
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